Connected

Wow, can you see the connection between the shape of the ...READY SEWED JACKET? Just had an amazing Foto-Shooting, and after that I found this new young designer in the net. Markus Lupfer nis the head of design for the label Armand Basi One. The dress on the right picture was showed by the spanish laben in the fall 2008 collection on the London fashion show. The whole collection was georgeous, it was a bouncy essay in exaggerated volume and color. Overblown trapezes; dresses with bunchy, standout gatherings above the waist; and A-line jackets with giant flounces seemed almost deliberately awkward and doll-like.
The delicate color combinations (orange, magenta, peacock blue, green, and pink) were luscious and the materials couture standard. Exactly what such extravagant cloques, failles and matelassés are doing at this label is puzzling, though.

Fairy day

No second zipper!

A big change on the finaljacket I´ve forgot: I don´t want the Zipper in the hood anymore. Before I sketched a designsolution for the jacket with an zipper in the middle of hood- to open them and wear the hood when it´s off the head like a cape on shoulders and back. So I want to show the coloured lining of the jacket. But last time I try on a model how prototype II fits- I recognized that the closed hood coul´d be weared like a cape, so a zipper in the hood is not neccessary for the final jacket. I like the new hood- the whole jacket looks more finished and well-combined without a second zipper. The pocets are well, they work and lookin´good. I made them into an dart in the sidefront, a vertical one on each side.

Next Wall Overcome...

...the last adjustment on my jacket: made a rounder shape for the hood. For that big operation today I´m well prepared: before I had draped the new shape on the head of a model- so that the new shape includes some folds on each side and a velt on top. Now it looks like a mix from some kind of bauhaus- architecture and a phantasy- protector-shield. When I finish today also the placement of the jetpockets, which I want to ad in the jacket..well, than I can start with the original Garment in the amazing woolfabric in salt´n pepper- optic. So excited!

easy easing?

Wow- there are a lot of things, I want to cange on the cacoil-prototyp. Especially the shape of the hood need a workover, and the seam with the easing on the bottom of the jacket. Its at the moment not in the following line from the jacket- the seam looks more like a shift in direction, because it goes away from the body of the person who wear the Fernforest-Jacket. But with a bit of draping I can develop a new pattern for the seam, lets start:

hourglass-glasshouse

The main focus for the topic of our jacketproject is to add a function on a tailored jacket, or use a specific functionallity as an inspiration for design. The design of the fairyforest jacket is somewhere between it- cause the jacket includes a kind of protection as a function- which influences the design essentially. The front of jacket should be covered from a shield- but not made from metal- made from satin - so the function was translated into a decorative mesage on the jacket.
But first, I´ll have to think about the shape and structure of the jacket, I want to create a sillouhette with a hourglass-shape, a lot of voluminous fabric on hip and shoulders- but not in countertrade with the mobility and usefulness.
The first calico- prototyp goes the right way to find the final shape. Theres lot of work on the shoulder shape and especially the hood, but the easing on the seam has a nice appearance.

Let´s go, what ingredients we need...?

The last weeks we only learned the basics in Jacket tailoring- now we´ll starts with the design. I need a topic to inspires me. Well. It´s hard, when everything is possible.
...
I know that I want to realise something with strong, heavy shining colours, but on an subtile way. And I want to be inspired from the Australian landscape. Last weekend I leave Melbourne for a short day-trip in the Mountains. I´d like the silence, the dark and fresh mood in the forests, and I get fascinated from the tall ferns, they´re grown everywhere in the forest. The structure, the sillouette from this plant- georgeous. Like them- choose them. Topic for my jacket: FAIRYFOREST/ URBANFOREST